Alocasia Care

Placement

PRO TIP: Alocasia leaves can become topheavy on their slender stems. If yours begin to droop, it can be a sign of the plant having too little light, too much or too little water in the soil, or not enough nutrients. The plant will right itself over time but you also can stake the stems while it recovers.

Boasting some of the most striking foliage in the houseplant world, the Alocasia is an increasingly popular addition to indoor plant collections due to its unmatched visual and sculptural appeal. There are around 80 species of this distinctly veined stunner native to subtropical Asia and eastern Australia, and some specimens boast leaves can grow up to almost three feet long!

Alocasias need bright, but indirect light. This is due to the plant's natural habitat, on the forest floor beneath the tree canopy. Direct sun will cause the leaves to burn, so avoid placing your Alocasia in a spot where it'll be exposed to a sun for a prolonged period. This plant is not tolerant of lower light conditions though, so make sure the space you're placing yours in feels very bright. Alocasias are native to — and grow best — in humid environments, so avoid placing yours near to an A/C or a heater if possible.

If you are unsure about the lighting conditions in your home or office, read our guide for how to measure light in your space.

Dieffenbachia Sterling Leaf

Most varieties of Alocasias propagated for indoor use are hybrids, and are grown for their appealing leaf appearance. Alocasia frydek, pictured here, is a result of this process.

Routine Maintenance

PRO TIP: Alocasias are prone to pests like spider mites. Check the undersides of the leaves regularly for webbing, and wiping them down frequently with soapy water will aid in prevention.

Always be sure to assess your plant’s watering needs upon receiving it. Before giving your plant a drink, it is best to check the moisture level in the soil first to ensure it isn’t moist right beneath the surface. Also, consider aerating the soil of your plant before the initial watering. We compact the soil to avoid shifting during transit, so aerating can help the soil breathe and allow moisture to be released.

Alocasia prefer to sit in soil that is consistently and evenly moist. Allow the top 2-3" to dry between watering to ensure the plant isn't sitting in soil that is too wet. During the winter, Alocasias will go through a dormancy period and will require less frequent waterings as the soil will take longer to dry. Alocasias can be susceptible to root rot and fungal infections if their soil doesn't have proper drainage and becomes waterlogged, so we always advise potting these plants in a vessel with a drainage hole.

These plants grow best in a humid environment and humidity can also help combat some of the Alocasia's most common pest, spider mites. Placing a pebble tray nearby is a good way to increase the humidity around the plant consistently, and frequent misting is encouraged too. When misting, try not to get the leaves too wet as sitting water can damage the leaves and weigh the stems down. Keep the plant away from the dry air that is emitted by heaters and air conditioners.

Rotate your plant periodically to ensure even growth on all sides and dust the leaves often so the plant can photosynthesize efficiently. When dusting the leaves, also take the opportunity to inspect the undersides and keep an eye out for pests.

Remember each plant is a unique living thing and may have varying needs, especially in their individual locations. Pay attention to the condition of your Alocasia and its watering needs and you will have a long and happy relationship.

Standard Planter Instructions

There are two types of standard planters offered by Greenery NYC—those with drainage holes, and those without. Within those two categories are an array of sizes and styles to choose from. The presence of drainage holes and size of the vessel play a role in the quantity and frequency of water given to your plant.

Plants purchased in a pot without a drainage hole have been set up with a built-in drainage system. A layer of hydro stones (porous, absorbent material made of recycled glass) has been placed beneath the soil to act as a reservoir for any excess water that flows through the soil. You will need to be slightly more cautious not to pour too much water into these containers as there is no way for the excess water to escape. We suggest pouring small amounts of water in bit by bit, until you have reached the desired moisture level in the soil.

For plants potted with drainage, water until it begins to come out the bottom of the pot and into the catch tray.

Always be sure to assess your plant's watering needs upon receiving it. Refer to the routine maintenance section for your plant’s specific moisture requirements. 

Self Watering Container Instructions

The self-watering planters require a good, solid watering of the topsoil after they are first placed. This is important because the roots of the plants need to grow into the reservoir first in order to drink from it. Follow the standard planter instructions for the first four weeks. Then the reservoir is ready to be tested.

TEST: After four weeks, fill the water reservoir until the red indicator reaches the MAX line. If the indicator goes down over the first few days, it means the plant is ready for regular reservoir servicing. If not, be sure to continue top watering for a few more weeks, until the red indicator goes down, meaning the plant has started drinking from the reservoir.

RESERVOIR SERVICING: Once the indicator goes down, do not refill the reservoir right away. Similar to how humans need a breath of air between gulps of water, almost all plants require a drying out period. Always allow for the reservoir to empty all the way, and after a drying out period of a few days, be sure to refill it until the indicator reaches the MAX line.

From here on out, you should NEVER topwater the plant. If you water from the top, it can drown the plant. In the Self Watering Container, the top layer of soil will eventually become extremely dry and hard, and may even pull away from the edges of the pot. This is not a cause for concern, but simply because the plant is drinking directly from its roots in the water reservoir.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are my Alocasia leaves drooping?

  • Droopy leaves are often caused by over or under watering, pests, insufficient light, or insufficient nutrients in the soil. Firstly, consider your recent care and whether your watering schedule needs adjusting. The Alocasia likes its soil to be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Next, consider the light it receives in its location. Is it bright? Are the seasons changing? You may need to move it closer to the light source. If none of these seem to be the issue, it may've outgrown its pot. Alocasias can grow very quickly through the summer and like to have space, so consider increasing the size of the pot it's in and refreshing the soil.

I think my Alocasia may have spider mites. What do I do?

  • Firstly, isolate the plant from the rest of your collection. Rinse the leaves and the stems with soapy water, and follow this by wiping the plant with Neem oil. Lastly, increase the humidity around your Alocasia upon placing it back in its original spot. Spider mites thrive in dry conditions, so regular misting and a nearby pebble tray can help prevent the bugs from coming back.

My Alocasia lost all its leaves! Should I throw it out?

  • There's still hope! Unlike many other low-light tropical plants, Alocasias as able to bounce back, even if they have lost all their leaves. This is due to the reserve energy they store in their thick tubers. If your Alocasia is looking worse for wear, we recommend placing it outdoor in a shaded area during the spring or summer. We've revived many a fallen Alocasia this way at the Greenery shade house and are happy to say they can come back with a vengeance!

Why are there spots on the leaves?

  • Alocasias can be sensitive to salts, minerals, and chlorine in tap water, which causes spotting. Let the water sit for 24 hours in a bucket or your watering can before giving it to the plant. This will allow for some of the unwanted materials to evaporate. Alternately, use distilled water.

How often should I fertilize my plant?

  • In general, house plants will thrive when they are fertilized spring through fall. Fertilize once a month with an organic houseplant fertilizer, following the package instructions for dilution and administration. Greenery NYC uses an organic potting mix with a slow release fertilizer in the soil so your plant will not need fertilizer within the first 6 months of receiving it.

How often does my plant need to be repotted?

  • For smaller desktop plants, we suggest repotting once every 12-18 months. Typically you want to choose a potting vessel 1”- 2” larger in diameter to allow for growth. Don’t choose a pot much larger than the previous as this could drown the plant's roots. If you prefer to maintain the current size of your plant, repot into the same vessel, providing new soil and trimming away some roots and foliage. Spring or summer is the ideal time to repot as the plant is at its strongest.
  • For larger floor plants, we suggest repotting every 18-24 months. Typically you want to choose a potting vessel 2”- 4” larger in diameter to allow for growth. Don’t choose a pot much larger than the previous as this could drown the plant's roots. If you prefer to maintain the current size of your plant, repot into the same vessel, providing new soil and trimming away some roots and foliage. Spring or summer is the ideal time to repot as the plant is at its strongest.

Additional Care Guides