PRO TIP: Alocasia leaves can become topheavy on their slender stems. If yours begin to droop, it can be a sign of the plant having too little light, too much or too little water in the soil, or not enough nutrients. The plant will right itself over time but you also can stake the stems while it recovers.
Boasting some of the most striking foliage in the houseplant world, the Alocasia is an increasingly popular addition to indoor plant collections due to its unmatched visual and sculptural appeal. There are around 80 species of this distinctly veined stunner native to subtropical Asia and eastern Australia, and some specimens boast leaves can grow up to almost three feet long!
Alocasias need bright, but indirect light. This is due to the plant's natural habitat, on the forest floor beneath the tree canopy. Direct sun will cause the leaves to burn, so avoid placing your Alocasia in a spot where it'll be exposed to a sun for a prolonged period. This plant is not tolerant of lower light conditions though, so make sure the space you're placing yours in feels very bright. Alocasias are native to — and grow best — in humid environments, so avoid placing yours near to an A/C or a heater if possible.
If you are unsure about the lighting conditions in your home or office, read our guide for how to measure light in your space.
Most varieties of Alocasias propagated for indoor use are hybrids, and are grown for their appealing leaf appearance. Alocasia frydek, pictured here, is a result of this process.
PRO TIP: Alocasias are prone to pests like spider mites. Check the undersides of the leaves regularly for webbing, and wiping them down frequently with soapy water will aid in prevention.
Always be sure to assess your plant’s watering needs upon receiving it. Before giving your plant a drink, it is best to check the moisture level in the soil first to ensure it isn’t moist right beneath the surface. Also, consider aerating the soil of your plant before the initial watering. We compact the soil to avoid shifting during transit, so aerating can help the soil breathe and allow moisture to be released.
Alocasia prefer to sit in soil that is consistently and evenly moist. Allow the top 2-3" to dry between watering to ensure the plant isn't sitting in soil that is too wet. During the winter, Alocasias will go through a dormancy period and will require less frequent waterings as the soil will take longer to dry. Alocasias can be susceptible to root rot and fungal infections if their soil doesn't have proper drainage and becomes waterlogged, so we always advise potting these plants in a vessel with a drainage hole.
These plants grow best in a humid environment and humidity can also help combat some of the Alocasia's most common pest, spider mites. Placing a pebble tray nearby is a good way to increase the humidity around the plant consistently, and frequent misting is encouraged too. When misting, try not to get the leaves too wet as sitting water can damage the leaves and weigh the stems down. Keep the plant away from the dry air that is emitted by heaters and air conditioners.
Rotate your plant periodically to ensure even growth on all sides and dust the leaves often so the plant can photosynthesize efficiently. When dusting the leaves, also take the opportunity to inspect the undersides and keep an eye out for pests.
Remember each plant is a unique living thing and may have varying needs, especially in their individual locations. Pay attention to the condition of your Alocasia and its watering needs and you will have a long and happy relationship.
There are two types of standard planters offered by Greenery NYC—those with drainage holes, and those without. Within those two categories are an array of sizes and styles to choose from. The presence of drainage holes and size of the vessel play a role in the quantity and frequency of water given to your plant.
Plants purchased in a pot without a drainage hole have been set up with a built-in drainage system. A layer of hydro stones (porous, absorbent material made of recycled glass) has been placed beneath the soil to act as a reservoir for any excess water that flows through the soil. You will need to be slightly more cautious not to pour too much water into these containers as there is no way for the excess water to escape. We suggest pouring small amounts of water in bit by bit, until you have reached the desired moisture level in the soil.
For plants potted with drainage, water until it begins to come out the bottom of the pot and into the catch tray.
Always be sure to assess your plant's watering needs upon receiving it. Refer to the routine maintenance section for your plant’s specific moisture requirements.
The self-watering planters require a good, solid watering of the topsoil after they are first placed. This is important because the roots of the plants need to grow into the reservoir first in order to drink from it. Follow the standard planter instructions for the first four weeks. Then the reservoir is ready to be tested.
TEST: After four weeks, fill the water reservoir until the red indicator reaches the MAX line. If the indicator goes down over the first few days, it means the plant is ready for regular reservoir servicing. If not, be sure to continue top watering for a few more weeks, until the red indicator goes down, meaning the plant has started drinking from the reservoir.
RESERVOIR SERVICING: Once the indicator goes down, do not refill the reservoir right away. Similar to how humans need a breath of air between gulps of water, almost all plants require a drying out period. Always allow for the reservoir to empty all the way, and after a drying out period of a few days, be sure to refill it until the indicator reaches the MAX line.
From here on out, you should NEVER topwater the plant. If you water from the top, it can drown the plant. In the Self Watering Container, the top layer of soil will eventually become extremely dry and hard, and may even pull away from the edges of the pot. This is not a cause for concern, but simply because the plant is drinking directly from its roots in the water reservoir.
Step 1: Top water for two weeks. The indicator will look empty, like the picture above.
Step 2: Fill the reservoir until the red indicator reaches the MAX line.
Step 3: Watch the indicator over the next day or two. If it goes down on its own, it means the roots of the plant have grown into the reservoir. From here on out, ONLY water in the reservoir.
Why are my Alocasia leaves drooping?
I think my Alocasia may have spider mites. What do I do?
My Alocasia lost all its leaves! Should I throw it out?
Why are there spots on the leaves?
How often should I fertilize my plant?
How often does my plant need to be repotted?
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